The prettiest village in Spain is a hidden gem in Asturias

Everyone agrees that villages in the mountains are enchanting. The smell of firewood envelops you as soon as you set foot at the entrance, and the traditional houses with the locals welcome you without hesitation. Some may be prettier than others, but the vast majority can be reached by public transport or by car. Although there are always some exceptions...

In the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, there lies (and never better said) a place that cannot be accessed by road. Bulnes is located in the Cabrales council, its stone houses and the surrounding nature make it one of the prettiest villages in Spain. It has no more than 50 inhabitants and is so isolated that it is not uncommon for it to be cut off in winter due to snow.

How to get there

The first option, and the only one until almost 25 years ago, is the favourite of hikers. The path that will take you to the village is the route of the Canal del Texu. It begins in Poncebos, from the Jaya bridge, and the path will take you through stones and rocks that have never known human contact, only shaped by the climate and the passage of time; a completely virgin natural environment. During this journey, you will skirt Peña Maín and the Texu river canyon, among gorges and vertical rocks that will leave you impressed. As you reach the end of the route, the path flattens out. Near Bulnes, there is a fork that separates the paths to Bulnes de Arriba and Bulnes de Abajo.

In 2001, the funicular was created, thus improving the limited connection this village had with the rest of the country. This engineering work covers the distance in just 7 minutes, starting at the Poncebos Bridge and ending in Bulnes; it can overcome a height difference of 400 metres.

Enjoy its charms

The village is divided into Bulnes de Arriba and Bulnes de Abajo. The oldest part is in Bulnes de Arriba, where the remains of an old watchtower are preserved. Here, the buildings are traditional, made of limestone with reddish roofs. This area, being higher up, offers stunning views.

Despite the charms of the more traditional part, tourists tend to stay in Bulnes de Abajo. In this area are the accommodations, restaurants (especially near the bridge) and a small shop; it is the newer and livelier part. Here you will find the chapel of Our Lady of the Snows, restored in 2014 and honoured during the patronal festivities.

On the outskirts of Bulnes, about 400 metres away, there is a viewpoint with exceptional views of Picu Urriellu, which can be reached on foot from the village. You can also visit the ruins of two old mills nearby: Molino de La Reguina and Molino del Chiflón. Lastly, remember that this is the area of Cabrales cheese, you cannot leave without trying it in its birthplace.

This village is perfect for disconnecting from the hustle and bustle of routine and breathing fresh air; there is only room for calm. But I warn you, if you visit, you may not want to return home afterwards.